On the Edge of the Precipice -Feldwebel, 389 Infantry Division, Stalingrad, 1942

Here is something new I have been working on for the past week after the Star Wars binge builds. I suppose the main play of this project is to use a tall feature to elevate the presentation of the figure to create a vertical composition. How the figure got up there is besides the point; I wanted this to be a metaphor about the vulnerable situation of the German 6th Army group and their impending fall. 

The figure is from  Tamiya German Infantry Set (Mid-WWII)  (Item 35371) embellished with a Hornet head sporting the Splinter camouflage helmet cover. I felt that the body lacked the bulk to compliment the head and thus went about to pad some parts of the trousers and arms with epoxy putty.

The pipes and valve gates are made from sprues, styrene strips and rods. The brick wall is constructed from interlocking various parts of the brick wall set from Hero Hobby Kits. In all 3 sets were used for the wall - with some left over for debris and other future projects. They were textured with a ball burr on a drill - pretty much the same technique used to recreate the cast iron texture on armoured vehicles. Just a few more odds and ends to tie up before I break out the paints.

Cheers,

Calvin  

Rebel Squadron, Bandai 1/144 scale.

 

May the Force be with you.

Calvin

Snow Speeder, Bandai 1/144 scale

The final piece in the line up of my Star Wars binge builds.

Cheers,

Calvin

Millennium Falcon, Bandai 1/350 scale

The next subject of my Star Wars binge build features the Millennium Falcon in 1/350 scale from Bandai painted using the same techniques applied on the Blockade Runner. 

Cheers,

Calvin

Blockade Runner, Bandai 1/1000 scale

Here is the completed model of the 1/1000 scale Blockade Runner from Bandai.

Cheers,

Calvin

Blockade Runner, Bandai 1/1000 scale - Part 4

In this final instalment, I will demonstrate some painting techniques used to profile the panel lines and weather the model. I am personally not a big fan of using pin washes to profile panel lines as I like my lines the way I like my chips - crisp. 

I therefore prefer to hand paint those lines with a fine tipped brush. For that I use the Model Wash Black(76.518) and Dark Brown (76.514) from Vallejo Acrylic(VA). The Model Wash from VA is very fluid and dries predictably matt. Unlike using a paint and water solution, there is also no worry of water marks which is common if you use water as a diluent.

To prolong the working time, I added a tiny bit of paint retarder to the wash.

A 0-sized brush was used to profile the outline. 

The wash can also be used to tone and darken the red areas.

The wash was also used to deepen the shadows in the deeper recesses and create effects of soot and grime on the model. 

The AK Weathering pencils were also used in tandem to create a more subtle effect - especially on larger areas. I used a filbert brush for added coverage. The lead was dissolved by the wet brush and applied directly onto the model the same way as toning.

Secondary tones were generated by using the chipping colour (which is a close match to Raw Umber) to balance out the harsh black tones in some areas. 

Finally, white is sparingly applied with a 0-sized brush on the high points to accentuate the highlights.

The final result.

Cheers,

Calvin

Blockade Runner, Bandai 1/1000 scale - Part 3

In this segment, I will delve into the finishing techniques employed on this project. After overcoming my initial scepticism, I decided to try out the weathering pencils from AK Interactive. I must admit that they are quite convenient and particularly good to use. They are essentially watercolour pencils - but endowed with richer pigments. They do not have that wax like appearance and boasts a deep and flat finish like acrylic paint. They are easy to manage and produce very subtle effects. Though not permanent, they can be sealed with fixative or varnish.  I highly recommend them for beginners or anyone who hates the odour of paint thinner and spirits as they dissolve readily in water. 

The deluxe 37 piece box set of weathering pencils courtesy of the good people at AK Interactive and MWorkshop.    

After some fumbling around to use them like conventional pencils, I settled to use them like paint, broke the lead and placed it into my blister pack palette. Light blue was used to enhance the vibrancy of the intermediate shadow of an otherwise dull medium grey Underpainting.

I proceeded to dissolve the lead into a solution comprising of 1 part retarder to three parts water. The purpose of the retarder is to increase the working time as well as to enhance the flow of the paint so that it spreads evenly. As you can see, the lead dissolves readily in the solution. 

As a rule of thumb, I always test out the consistency of the paint - as with the application of the glaze before applying onto the model. 

The light blue is applied to the mid tone areas for a subtle hint of vibrancy in the same fashion as one would do for a glaze.

Tighter corners are applied with a round brush.

Larger flat areas with a flibert brush.

The result from the subtle glaze of light blue in the mid tones. 

Perhaps one of the best thing about this kit is that it provides stickers, meaning that the "frames" can serve as masking films. 

Cut, peel and attach.

A firm rubber tipped clayshaper is used to press the sticker mask into the model's surface.

A light thin coat of paint and peel of the sticker mask. 

Painting the grey panels.

Painting the red stripes on the thrusters with masking tape.

Some light drybrushing on the edges with Grimy Grey over the red areas.

A light wash of scarlet Red over the dry brushed area to enhance the highlight. 

The completed result at this stage of the painting.

Too be continued......

Calvin